The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo
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Let’s Begin…
Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.
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Meet The Creators
- Educator Nick Pizzo
- Director Ryan Rumbolt
- Narrator Addison Anderson
- Illustrator Miguel Ángel Camprubí
- Animator Ryan Rumbolt, Christine Le, Juan Pontaroli, Jose Moreno
- Storyboard Artist Christine Le
- Compositor Ryan Rumbolt
- Music Wes Slover
- Director of Production Gerta Xhelo
- Editorial Producer Alex Rosenthal
- Associate Producer Bethany Cutmore-Scott
- Script Editor Alex Gendler
- Fact-Checker Brian Gutierrez
Stephanie Cariker
Lesson completed
WHY?
Why is it that in some places the wave is bigger or smaller.And Why is it that in some places the wave is darker color or lighter color?
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alec ermes
Lesson in progress
Hi Stephanie, according to the video the size of a wave is determent by a shape of the bottom of the ocean in a place. It would also depend on a cause of the wave and an amount of energy that was transferred to the wave at it's creation.
I think, the color of waves in a given place would be primary determent by the state of the water there and by the angle at with sunlight hit water surface. (+how much sunlight there is in the first place) In a general case the water would seem lighter and bluer if the sun rays are more perpendicular to the surface. A more oblique angle will results in a grayer and darker colors. Same will tend to happen if sky is clouded (less sunlight to illuminate the water).
