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The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo

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Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.

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Meet The Creators

  • Educator Nick Pizzo
  • Director Ryan Rumbolt
  • Narrator Addison Anderson
  • Illustrator Miguel Ángel Camprubí
  • Animator Ryan Rumbolt, Christine Le, Juan Pontaroli, Jose Moreno
Avatar for Lauren Greenberg
Lesson in progress

Lauren Greenberg When the weather is hot and no wind there will be very small waves. When the weather is cold and windy, the waves will be a lot larger.

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